Published: 04 October 2008In the Folkingestraat in Groningen, the Netherlands, situated between shops selling antiquities and exotic spices, you will find Simsalabim. A store that sells alternative clothing in a wide range of styles – from gothic to punk, rockabilly, hippie and retro. A store so proud of its wilfulness, it even uses it as a motto.
In the year 2000 Erna and Hans started Simsalabim. Prior to that Erna worked at a clothing store where she was also involved in the purchasing and selection of products. When she decided to open her own store, she knew right away that it would not be mainstream. ‘I come from an underground background myself, from the alternative scene. I am a punk-hippie with roots in metal and rock-’n-roll. I’m wilful and wanted a store with a style to match.’
They were fortunate enough to get a property in the Folkingestraat, which is known to be one of the most characteristic streets of the city. ‘We called the shop Simsalabim, because every day we provide the opportunity to dive into your wardrobe and come out of it in a look that matches your mood of the day. One day you may be in the mood for a tough look wearing boots, and the next you might prefer a sexy dress or be a colourful hippie.
Our store is the same and provides a lot of variety.’ Customers may walk into the store in jeans and a T-shirt and come out as a femme fatale, or retro – a style that is very up and coming now. ‘The retro-style goes back to the 60s and 70s and is very successful. Blouses with beautiful prints and flared trousers – even customers from Amsterdam shop with us, because our collection is not limited to fashion but more related to style-choices.’

In recent years, the classic gothic style was popular, but now the cyber gothic and Lolita styles take the stage. ‘I pick up on new styles mostly in London and Berlin,’ Erna tells me. ‘For Simsalabim these are the cities that inspire us the most. But also New York and Los Angeles are important. Every city has a style of it’s own.’
Los Angeles is really the ‘city of rockers’; a lot of music originates from it, band clothing and the raw rock music. In Berlin you will find mostly gothic, rock-’n-roll and retro. In London Camden is the creative centre – that is where underground fashion is born. ‘Some time ago, Balkan Beats were popular in Berlin and now we have Balkan Beats parties even here in Groningen. Music influences clothing. Since a few seasons, we also sell shoes with platform soles, and a large collection of panty hoses. Our credo is ‘deliciously self-willed’, to me a very important motto.’ It shows in every detail: the clothing, the music scene the customers are a part of, but also the clientele.
‘It happens that I may be a bit early with novelties, when the time isn’t right for it yet. Even though it may be a trend in New York City, it could take a half a year before it takes this part of the world. I don’t carry any large collections; it’s a small store with special collections. I talk to a lot of people – designers, producers, salespeople and customers. Creative people make their own designs and that inspires people; it will then develop into a new trend.’ But the reverse is also true; a customer may be asking for a specific product and Erna will then address this in London, to find if she can have it produced according to the client’s wishes.
‘When you work in a store, you also fulfil a social role - our clientele is far different from the mainstream crowd. The way they view life and society is not standard. Mainly because they react against society and think for themselves. The punk scene in Barcelona, for example, is made up of wonderful people with magnificent hairstyles and clothing.’ Simsalabim’s customers also follow the motto. A cheeky clothing style is also an expression of a wilful personality. ‘I realize the media have a large influence, there’s an intelligent brain behind it. People are being steered creatively and politically. In the way of thinking and the choices people make; also in regard to clothing and appearance.’ The punks and rockers are the ones that do not comply.
‘What really affects me is seeing girls who are 14 or 15 years old and do not think themselves to be pretty, when they are really beautiful! The sizes that are on sale in the High Street stores are so small; people measure themselves by it and feel bad if they don’t fit – what a waste. Fortunately, we still have plenty of healthy girls who feel good about themselves. Clothing should be available for everyone, regardless of sizes.’ It’s clear that Erna is serious: when she needed a new shop assistant, she not only wanted someone with personality and backbone, but also someone with ‘many tattoos and piercings’. Two days later she found Suzanne Petrusma, who now also manages the shop’s websites.
Hot items in Simsalabim are not related to brands, but more to style. There are always trendy items available from both expensive and cheaper labels. ‘The old-fashioned corset is very popular. Mostly, because it’s a popular item in different scenes - it has a large audience. It’s a very sexy piece of clothing for women dancing in on stage, and at the same time, Goths love it as well. We also carry skinny jeans in many colours and prints, they’re very popular.’ The store carries extra long trousers, in the ‘flares’-style, which is very pleasant for the tall customers.
‘In addition, we sell T-shirt with all sorts of flaky prints; from Sesame Street to Der Maus und Elefant, or prints with a pun. As far as brands are concerned, Evil Clothing and Darkside sell really well. And of course Emily the Strange remains ever popular.’

Every June Simsalabim hosts a big summer party – an outdoor festivity with a big fashion show. During winter the fashion show goes indoors. ‘Last summer I planned on expanding on the goa/psy-trance collection, perfect for outdoors dance-festivals. The store itself got a makeover on the outside and an extra window. I plan on getting into shoes more,’ Erna says, ‘and make-up as well. Customers ask me about make-up and nail polish in specific colours used in the dance scene, like black light. I don’t have specific plans for the future, I try to relax and absorb what happens around me. The right things will come my way at the right time.’
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